One of our new (to us) cookbooks was beginning to pine away from lack of use, and we decided we must make something from it. As it turned out, we managed three different dishes from the book in one meal: not all exactly as written, but definitely inspired by. As a result, we’ve decided that Greg Malouf is a genius. These recipes are from Artichoke to Za’atar (I prefer its UK title, Arabesque)- now we have to get to work on Turquoise. And I really must get hold of a copy of Saha.

The meal was composed of very normal things for us to make: lamb chops, mashed potatoes and a shaved fennel salad. But the lamb was glazed with mustard, cardamom seed, honey and sherry, then coated with breadcrumbs mixed with lemon zest, fennel seed and sumac powder. The fennel was tossed with fresh mint, dried mint and parsley in a lemon dressing, and the mashed potatoes were sieved and beaten with a large quantity of butter and goat cheese. It all looked so good we decided it was worthy of opening our bottle of Stephenson Syrah, and oh lordy.

I can recommend all of these recipes, but I really think anyone who likes potatoes and goat cheese needs to make this one. I’m printing the recipe in all its caloric glory, but I freely admit that I couldn’t bring myself to add the full amount of butter (I did add plenty of cheese). I also subbed some half and half for the cream, because that’s what I had on hand. I did, though, for the first time ever, actually sieve the potatoes. It made me cranky, but it was so totally worth it.

Goat Cheese Mashed Potatoes

from Artichoke to Za’atar by Greg Malouf and Lucy Malouf

• 3 russet potatoes
• 1 Yukon Gold or other waxy potato
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 7 Tbsp butter
• 1/2 cup cream
• 1/3 cup goat cheese
• salt and pepper

Peel and dice the potatoes, place in a large pan and cover with cold salted water. Bring to a boil and simmer 15-20 minutes, until completely cooked.

Combine the oil, butter and cream in a small pan, bring to a boil, then simmer until reduced by a third. Keep warm.

Press the potatoes through a sieve, then pour in the butter mixture. Beat thoroughly, then break up the goat cheese into the potatoes and beat it in. Salt and pepper to taste, and eat immediately.